Marc Pevar
606 Ridge Ave.
Kennett Square, PA, 19348
**********
SCOPE OF REPORT
On ********* I inspected Mr. Sxxxxxxx's home, *******************, **. I observed extensive evidence of prolonged water entry into the house. Water appears to enter the house through multiple paths including: windows, trim, roof, siding and uncaulked seams. This is the my inspection report and cost analysis detailing observations of both surface and destructive inspections. Note that S had been living in his home for several years, and that the defects that damaged his home were the result of latent defects of workmanship dating to when the builder built the home fifteen years prior for its first owner, who sold the house to the current owner.
EXTERIOR WALL CONSTRUCTION METHODS: The house is wood frame construction, with 2x4 walls, bottom and top 2x4 wood plates, floor joists and band boards. The structural walls are sheathed on the exterior with oriented strand board (aka “OSB”). In different places, Tyvec brand of moisture resistant house wrap or tarpaper are applied to the outside of the OSB. The exterior walls surfaces are stucco in some places, cedar siding in other places. Flat painted wood trim surrounds each window or door opening in the exterior walls. The same kind of wood trim also runs vertically at many house corners. At the eave levels, there is aluminum-clad fascia.
OBSERVATIONS of SURFACE AND DESTRUCTIVE INSPECTIONS
WOOD SIDING, TRIM and ROOFING INSPECTION
OBSERVATIONS: Under my supervision, the home-owner and a wood siding and roofing subcontractor removed siding and wooden window trim so I could inspect the siding, trim and the wall sheathing. The roofing subcontractor also walked on the roofs to take a close look at the cedar shake roofing system. He reported what he saw and answered questions I asked while he was on the roofs.
The cedar siding is painted. Many sections of siding are warped, bowed, cupped or split. There is Tyvec brand house wrap behind much of the cedar siding. However, there are some places where tarpaper was used instead of Tyvec. There is no sign that any Tyvec seams were taped as required by the manufacturer to insure a waterproof installation. There are places as high as the top of a second floor window where there were signs of insect infestation within the wall system. Under the front porch, there are visible stains caused by water exiting from behind the cedar siding.
The wood trim is painted on the outside only and was never back primed. Many pieces of wood trim have raised grain, feel damp soft and spongy when pressed. Some pieces of wood trim have deteriorated so much that they have holes in them. The deterioration has the appearance of fungus, mould, rot and insect damage.
The cedar shake roofing shingles are warped, split and bowed. Some shingles are missing, revealing tarpaper below. From inside the attic, sunlight shines through the shingles at some places and there are water stains on the roof joist.
Wood trim separates the windows and doors from the stucco. Except for some caulk that the homeowner said he installed around some leaking windows in the Fall of 2003, there is no caulk between the stucco and wood joints or between the wood and vinyl window joints. Every window and door has such joints around it. None of the vertical wood trim at house corners is caulked. There was no sign of caulking between the wood trim and any other materials.
The existing vinyl-clad wood windows are surrounded by painted wooden trim at the window jambs, heads and sills on the outside of the house, creating a “picture framing” appearance around windows. This wood trim has visible holes (large enough to insert several fingers) and is spongy feeling when pressed by hand. Some sections of wood trim could not resist gentle pressure from fingers without collapsing. In some places, there was no wood left under the paint. The wood felt damp. None of the painted wood trim pieces that we removed had been back primed (i.e. painting of the edges or underside of exterior wood).
FINDINGS: The cedar siding is weakened at many places and appears to be damaged from moisture trapped behind it. Stains on the siding under the front porch suggest that water is entering the wall system where the second floor windows and their wood framing are uncaulked. The trapped water appears to flow down the Tyvec, and eventually finds its way out between sections of cedar siding under the screened-in porch. At this time it is unknown whether the OSB and structural wall and flooring system in this area has been damaged by such water and or inspects or other biological processes.
Based on numerous inspections, I recommend replacing all of the wood trim around all of the windows and exterior doors. The new trim should be primed on all sides, and finish painted and caulked.
STUCCO INSPECTION
OBSERVATIONS: Under my supervision, a stucco subcontractor removed some stucco and exterior window trim so I could inspect the stucco system and wall sheathing. The total stucco system is between one-half and three-quarters of an inch thick. The highly textured stucco finish coat is applied to a brown scratch coat, which itself is applied to wire lath. The wire lath is nailed to the oriented strand board (aka “OSB”) exterior wall sheathing.
There were no signs of separation between the finish coat and the scratch coat. There was no sign of rust in the wire lath or nails that fasten the lath to the OSB wall sheathing. The lath and nails were rust-resistant products. Based on experience, the stucco subcontractor suggested that the rust-like stains on the stucco finish coat could be caused by water-soluble chemicals that rain leaches from the exterior wood paint.
We removed pieces of exterior window trim and hammered some holes in stucco close to the window trim. Wherever we found soft, spongy or missing wood trim, we found that the OSB sheathing was to disintegrate to hold a nail. In such places, the stucco system lacks support and can crack, bulge or move away from the sheathing.
There are many cracks in the stucco all around the house. An area of the stucco system to the right of the rear kitchen window (close to the elevation of the first floor, and measuring approximately three feet wide by three feet high), is bulged and buckled outward. When I pushed on the bulged stucco in that area it moved in and out as I applied hand-pressure toward the house.
I observed signs (described hereinabove) indicating that much exterior wood trim around windows and doors is rotted or otherwise weakened as a consequence of water penetration, biological processes or by insects. At some places where we removed rotted wooden window trim we found that the OSB sheathing is too deteriorated too hold nails. Based on the representative places we inspected, it is not reasonable to assume that any uninspected wood trim or OSB is undamaged.
The stucco was installed against the wooden wall system and was continued down into the ground. In this way, no basement masonry walls were left exposed to air, but instead were clad with the stucco system.
FINDINGS: The stucco’s brown scratch coat is well applied to the wire mesh. The stucco finish coat is well applied to the scratch coat. However, there are many places where it appears that the OSB sheathing is too deteriorated to hold nails. Wherever nails are not holding, the stucco system is free to move in response to environmental conditions such as temperate changes, wind, moisture, humidity, ice between the stucco and the sheathing, gravity, etc. The cracking throughout the walls and the bulging near the kitchen window most likely resulted as nails became progressively looser as the OSB deteriorated.
Until the stucco is properly anchored to the wall structure these flaws (cracks and bulges) are free to increase and spread throughout the stucco system.
Because the stucco was extended beyond the basement masonry walls, it provides a direct pathway into the wall system for insects that live in the ground. East Marlborough Township’s building code requires leaving an air gap of approximately eight inches between the finished grade and the wooden wall system to prevent insect infestation of wall systems. Insects such as termites and wood boring beetles thrive in an environment of dark, wet wood.
Additionally, when Tyvec is installed without the required tape, the Tyvec itself can channel and trap water inside the structural wood stud system. This can happen when water or moisture enters behind a siding or stucco system (i.e. at uncaulked wood trim). That water or moisture then finds its way into behind the Tyvec and against the OSB wall sheathing, where it can farther enter into the wood stud system.
Because the wood trim joints were never caulked, water entered the wall system at many windows and other wood trim joints. The water found its way into the walls from the second floor level all the way to the ground. Unless it has been specially waterproofed, stucco (which is moisture permeable and semi-porous), absorbs moisture and slowly releases it after a rain. This means that the stucco that runs down to the ground acts as a wick, and contributes to a prolonged moist environment within the wooden wall system. Considering that the stucco continued where building codes require a bare masonry wall, it would be surprising if there was no insect damage nearly ten years after construction.
The combination of these construction errors (no caulk, no Tyvec taping, no back priming of wood trim or windows, no air gap between the dirt and the stucco) all contributed to the deterioration of the OSB, studs, wood trim and wood windows at this house, and infestation of insects.
REMEDIATION: The only way to find the full scope of the OSB deterioration is to remove stucco or drywall all over the house to expose the OSB. Both approaches will result in very high costs for partial demolition and also for restoration. After deteriorated OSB is found, removing it without damaging more stucco or drywall will be slow, difficult and costly. Additionally, the repair process for stucco must take into account removing and replacing the existing windows and also the existing wood trim around windows, as will be addressed hereinbelow. In my professional opinion, the least costly approach is to remove and replace all stucco.
Wherever OSB is deteriorated, there is a possibility that 2x4 wall studs are also deteriorated, along with some floor joists and exterior band board. It is not possible to know the full extent of related damage until all potential areas are thoroughly explored. Because the OSB relies on the 2x4 studs for support, any deterioration of the 2x4 studs increases the likelihood of motion and consequent deterioration of the stucco system.
Wherever the OSB is too deteriorated to hold nails, large areas of stucco will have to be removed and replaced so full sheets of OSB (measuring four feet by eight feet) can be installed. The process of selectively patching is very slow, and also runs the risk of damaging the existing stucco where the existing OSB will be left in place.
In my professional opinion, the least costly way to fix the deteriorated OSB sheathing is to remove the entire stucco system, remove and replace all damaged OSB, and to reinstall new OSB sheathing.
When the stucco is reinstalled, the required air gap of exposed masonry foundations must be created to reduce the likelihood of future insect infestation.
Additionally, there may be a need to remove and replace wall studs, to repair floor joists or ribbon board. If wall studs need to be replaced, there will be additional costs where electrical wiring is installed in holes that are drilled in the studs. It is also possible that the horizontal wooden plates at the tops and bottoms of walls, as well as supporting ribbon boards are similarly deteriorated and will need to be replaced. Finally, because there are obvious signs of biological processes (i.e. fungus, mould or and rot) within the wall system, it may be necessary to remediate these conditions as well even after the structural repairs are made.
WINDOW INSPECTION
Soft vinyl cladding on windows
Rotted, deteriorated and missing structural studs, ribbon-board
House-wrap not taped at windows
Painter – explain lack of back priming, deterioration of handrail leading to porch, bottoms of railings not painted…
INTERIOR:
Stains on carpet
Stains on drywall
Stains on windowsills
Liquid water reported by Mr. xxxxxxxxx and his wife, entering onto windowsills during rain
GENERAL FINDINGS: Based on the representative places we inspected, I concluded that it is unreasonable to assume that any uninspected windows, wood trim or OSB are undamaged by water, biological processes or by insects.
POSSIBLE CONTRIBUTING CAUSES
TYVEC: Tyvec house-wrap was installed, but does not appear to have been taped to the exterior nailing flange of the windows as required by the manufacturer.
WINDOW HEADER FLASHING: The drip edge flashing above the windows is not shaped or long enough to direct water away from the window header and vertical legs. Instead, the flashing channels water to run off in-line with the vertical legs of the window. This design thereby concentrates water to an opening between the window and the siding, and opening that is not caulked or sealed to keep that water out of the house.
WINDOW WOOD: The windows are manufactured by Malta, which is now out of business, in part, as a consequence of a class action suit caused by Malta using untreated wood in its vinyl windows, resulting in rotting of the wood. The rotting of the window wood could be a consequence of Malta’s using untreated wood, in combination with water penetration at unwelded vinyl seams and uncaulked vinyl-wood and wood-stucco joints.
VINYL CLADDING: The window vinyl cladding is not continuous at the header, exposing the unfinished wooden window. Because the seam between the vinyl cladding and its exposed wooden window is not caulked or otherwise sealed, this seam is another point of entry for water into the wall system.
OTHER CAUSES: Until more of the siding is systematically removed, it is not possible to rule out other contributing causes of the water penetration. Such causes could include but not be limited to: improper installation of house-wrap and/or tar paper; roof-related points of entry, considering that this is a wood shingle roof, which may have problematic installation, combined with inadequate attic ventilation; etc.
EXPOSED WALL SYSTEM: This refers to the sidewall to the left of the front porch. Mr. Sxxxxxxxxxxx reports that when he was caulking a window, he noticed soft wood. When he removed the soft wood, he saw that the oriented strand board (“OSB”) behind it was falling apart. When he removed the crumbling OSB, he found that studs were rotted and partly disintegrated. He continued removing the siding and fully exposed the severely damaged wall system and then contacted me to evaluate the situation.
LIABILITY RECOMMENDATION
Before he purchased this home, Mr. ********************* paid for a professional home inspection by *******************. The Home Inspection Report referenced the type of wondiws, but failed to note the fact that the windows lacked exterior flashing and caulking. Exterior flashing and caulking are required by the Building Code. This was an error and omission in reporting. The builder who failed to install the flashing and caulking is out of business. The Township inspector and the Township are both shielded from liability for most issues. However, the Home Inspection Company is required by law to carry Insurance for Errors and Omissions. That insurance company may have a liability in this matter.
Respectfully submitted,
Marc Pevar
To: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx *********
Re: S xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Estimate
From: Marc Pevar
Dear Mr Sxxxxxxxxxxx:
This is my estimate for work at the xxxxxxxxxx home. I am comfortable with your using this as you proceed with the courts. We can review details and I can prepare a report after we discuss.
$ 35,000 Quote received to remove and replace all stucco
$ 2,880 Estimate to replace wood picture framing around windows with stucco banding
$ 3,000 Estimate to relocate and replace shrubbery that is in the way of stucco work
$ 32,120 Quote for painting new siding, drywall and paint at windows interior
$ 1,360 Quote for new gutters and downspouts
$ 24,650 Quote (verbal), remove and replace cedar shake shingles
$ 25,800 Quote (verbal), remove and replace cedar siding, including tyvec & tape this also includes perforated
ventilating soffets at the eaves and ceiling of screened porch)
$ 3,500 Estimated allowance for increases in cedar and aluminum prices
$ 16,440 Quote for new vinyl clad windows and one French door
$ 9,820 Estimate to remove and replace 39 windows 1 French Door and their trim
$ 520 Estimate, replace gable vents in main attic, install invisible ridge vent
$ 645 Estimate, entrance handrail leading up to the porch (rotting, improperly painted)
$ 5,555 Estimate, exterior wall sheathing, Tyvec, Tyvec tape, caulk, protect from weather.
$ 3,500 Estimate, interior of house, protect and clean, dumpster to remove debris
$ 4,890 Estimate, remove, replace or strengthen structural studs, plates, joist
$169,680 Subtotal
$ 33,936 20% allowance for unknown related corrective work
$203,616 Subtotal
$ 81,446 40% General Contractor supervison, manage, warrant corrective work
$285,062 Estimated cost to correct the damages, exclusing costs listed below
There will be additional costs, coordinated through Mr. Sxxxxxxxxxx, not through the general contractor:
1. Expert lab and consultancy studies and evaluations to determine scope of work
2. Environmental remediation (insects, mold, fungus)
3. Vacating house and living elsewhere for 2 to 3 months
4. Miscellaneous conditions, materials, services as yet unidentified
Marc Pevar